Sunday, November 19, 2006

The White Cliffs...

If you ever have occasion to talk to a true Brit, here's a little game you can play. It's super easy, and the results are absolutely predictable. Simply say: 'I think I'd like to live in Milton Keynes', then watch as their expression changes from shock, to horror, to illness. The funny thing is, this same effect will be observed if you exchange 'Milton Keynes' for 'Dover'. Yes, in the words of pretty much any brit you ask, 'Dover is a hole'. And having been there, I can now confirm that this is ideed the case. So why, then, did we (Jane, Marie and I) pile into old bessy (see two posts ago) to and drive for three hours to get there? Well, the town may be an ugly shambles (with no Starbucks, even), but there's a really good castle... and, of course the white cliffs!

Left is a picture of Jane and Marie taken, well, on the way to the Sound of Music, really (see last post) but it's good, so here it is. Dover castle sits right on the edge of the cliffs and has a fantastic view of the channel . While we were there, the weather was clear enough to easily see France, especially from the top of the castle (pictured right). The main attraction at the castle is actually the catacombs under the white cliffs which served as headquaters for various armies from the Napoleonic wars to WWII. We took a tour through them, which was less than inspiring, but at least we got to see a map showing the 20 or so known miles of tunnel. English heritage is still exploring them and they think some tunnels might extend all the way to St. Margaret's, a coastal village to the north.

For some reason, the Germans never really bombed what they knew was the british joint military headquarters under the cliffs, preferring instead historical monuments and buildings of lesser military importance. In any case the castle was never hit, and only part of the old saxon church near the castle ever saw the inside of a German bomb. The cliffs themselves are actually as white (or even whiter!) than you think they are. In the picture on the left, you can see the Admiral Ramsey's room (it's the the big window). They sure do love Ramsey at Dover, for orchastrating the 'Miracle' that was the Dunkirk evacuation.

So there you have it. Dover is a hole, the castle has a nive view and the cliffs are as white (or whiter) than you think they are. Happy Trails...

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